Let's talk a bit about amplifiers. I owned numerous devices. Commercial and DIY. Jeff Rowland, Anaview Abletec, Hypex, T-amps, SMSL and the list goes on and on. I tried many of those ebay Class-D modules. I tried all kind of power supplies (connex/hypex/linears, ...), I tried several full digital amps. and I compared these to even more amps owned by audiophile friends of mine.
Oh dear. What a career. I swapped Class-D output transformers with Mundorf coils, replaced rectifiers, cabling, fuses connectors, power cables and the tweak list goes on and on.
And finally I got hooked up to a Purifi Audio Eigentakt 1ET400A Stereo Eval1 amp integrated into a Ghent Audio case.
I am running this amp for more than a year by now. Puh. What a journey.
Spoiler alert: This is the best amp I ever had - supplying me with almost "boringly" clean amplification. A so-called wire-with-gain. Everything that gets thrown at it will be displayed. I simply can't find any amp specific mannerism. The numerous measurements and reviews out there confirm it.
My old Hypex stuff as all my other (tweaked) amps performed worse. Period. My Abletec/Anaview AMS0100-2300 was IMO close (not close enough though). However. On performance/cost the Anaview was and IMO would still be the better choice!
Whatsoever. There was simply no better amp then the Puriri in my system yet.
The next question one the table: What is/was done with the preamp-section or volume control!?!?
I did have a Jeff Rowland Pre in the past. I sold it quite a while ago. I was running several passive pres. And the probably best solution was a Bent Audio Transformer potentiometer.
The best of all preamp solution to me though is to use "No PreAmp at all". Since years I am hooking up my amps right to the DACs and make sure the amp gain structure matches the DAC output voltage and my speaker sensitivity. Levels and impedances should also comply to specs btw! A preamp and its cabling will add flaws. Always. That's basic physics.
There's one caveat. At system turn-on or during DAC initialization turn-on pops might blow your speakers. Better look for a DAC that doesn't have that turn-on-pop problem. On well designed DACs the output stage gets muted at DAC init to avoid this behaviour.
However. You better make sure there's a proper system turn-on sequence in place. That lowers the risk substantially.
What's been the learning so far!?!?
- quality amps play not such a big role - not causing huge differences
- I can get rid off preamps and HW VCs if
1. I get an amp that mates/matches the DAC output
2. the amp gain level matches my speakers sensitivity
3. I run a quality SW volume control
4. I just run a single source
5. I make sure that the chain won't blow my speakers - fully integrated solutions (DAC and AMP, powerDAC, full digital amps) are IMO still the best solution for the future. These amps are reducing DAC>amp interface related flaws even further. ;)
Let's get a bit more specific about my setup.
Perhaps there are also better power supply options out there. To be honest. For me it's good enough the way it is for the time being. Optimizations on my upstream gear and front-end (DAC/RPi) still cause a lot more differences on perceived sound quality then the tweaking on the amp side.
I wouldn't call the Purifi my final amp though. Because I think a fully integrated DAC+amp or PowerDac/Full digital amp solution or a digital active speaker solution has the potential to beat a chain build from seperate devices.
What I don't understand is to see Peter Lyngdorf from Tact listed as co-founder in the Purifi team . Lyngdorf is one of the full-digital amp pioneers. Tact had a real good rep in the full-digital amp arena. And now he seems to support a full-analog Purifi amp again. Hmmh. That must have been a big step back for Lyngdorf. Perhaps - fingers crossed - one day Purifi will go the all-digital route. For sure they have the right team onboard for getting it done.
Klaus, thank you for your post about Purify. I'm waiting for mine (Audiofonics instead of the Ghent case kit, though). I need some solution to switch the amplifier on and off remotely (when the processor is switched on/off). Is it worth using a power strip with master-slave function (e.g. Brennenstuhl)?
ReplyDeleteMaybe you have an idea how to do this well? Thanks.
I am using Tasmota based Smart-MainsPlugs and Arduino controlled relays. I use the IOS app Tasmotrol and also have created rather complex IOS Shortcuts to turn the system on and off in the right sequence and timing. That works extremely well. Even the family can now turn on/off the entire system by pressing two buttons on the IOS homescreen. Took me a while to get it all going. ;)
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