my system

(Latest update: Jul-22-2024)


Several people out there were interested to see what audio system I am running. 

Below I am outlining the setup of my main audio system. I'll update the text as soon as something changes on my side.

I hope that this article puts the projects, articles and recommendations you'll find on this blog and the forums where I am active into a certain context. Something that makes sense to you.

Disclaimer:

I do not have any commercial or business relationships with any of the manufacturers and related products that are shown on this page and blog.

Speakers

PIO Sound Falcon -- Hybrid Electrostatic speakers 



IMO great sounding and very nice looking speakers.
(unfortunately out of production and business)

slightly modified

Amplifier

Purifi Eval 1 and modified Ghent Audio Case (DIY)

IMO a very neutral amp. It delivers plenty of rock solid power from bottom to top. 

Almost "boringly" good.  The amp plays everything you throw at him. 

The best amp I ever had. 

I run the amp at 0dB pre-stage gain setting, which is usually more than sufficient.

The input pre-gain stage will be "bypassed"  and that improves the already excellent 

SINAD performance by another 4dB according to ASR. (here's are the ASR measurements and ranking)

Preamplifier

None 

straight DAC >> amp connection

The Purifi amp allows to configure different gain levels. That's pretty useful for a good DAC-amp integration.

All-In-One audio streaming solution

All-In-One means: audio (streaming) server, client and storage on a single machine   

Hardware 

• RPi5
• 4GB RAM
• GeeekPi passive (top/bottom) cooling
• Pimorini NVME.M2 HAT
• Sabrent 2230 M.2 NVME 2TB
• IanCanada Shield Pi Pro (rail filter and buffer)
• Allo Shanti (for RPi and NVME) plus 1200uF OSCON buffer.
• iFi iDefender (DAC)
• iFi iPurifier (DAC)
• Ghent Audio USB (JSSG360) Silver-plated Star Quad
• Gbit ethernet (LinkUp CAT8)
• and more

NOTE: 

As you can read on several blog articles I avoid wireless networking and network storages.

Now with the RPi5 in place I also avoid SD cards and USB SSDs as storage media.

I also make sure that a proper star-grounding is in place between all devices!

Beside that the HW runs the latest firmware and is overclocked. 

All RPI HW stuff that's not needed is turned off in the BIOS.

Software

• custom (pi-gen)  Raspberry PI OS 64 - Bullseye
• custom 64-bit rt-kernel (based on 6.6.x RPI foundation kernel)
• custom 64-bit userspace
• custom LMS (based on latest github LMS)
• custom squeezelite (my own fork offered on github )
• advanced tuning measures ( some are described  on the blog some you'll find in tuning kit - sKit )

Note: 

I consider the standalone all-in-one audio streaming solution the best and also most convenient solution.

I also notice much less administrative workload. A word about streaming . Unfortunately I had to learn that streamed content even if full RAM buffered can sound differently than local audio files. Yep. I know. Not nice. It is what it is.

Some of you might wonder why I am not using piCorePlayer myself even though I am

referring to it all the time. The reason is simple. 

I can and I am building and customizing my entire RPI SW setup (OS, rt-kernel, LMS, squeezelite)  from scratch. 

That'll give me maximum flexibility and freedom to do and tweak whatever I like. Not to forget.

It'll give me best results. 

Now. Working with pCP as a designer is a PITA. All my piCorePlayer based work you'll find on this blog and on github is solely dedicated to you fellow audio enthusiasts - yep  - I don't use it myself. 

BUT. It's still worth to go for it. It might be your 2nd best choice - soundwise - out there. ;) 

However: For now I don't support the latest version of pCP and RPI5. It'd require quite some effort on my side to do the required evolutionary work.

Digital to Analog Converter

Gustard A18

Oh. Gee. A commercial DAC. Yep. I was able to a snatch a used one. An offering I couldn't resist.

Here's the ASR review

Measurements look really nice. Beside that it also sounds nice. Gustards are known for powerful and natural sound. The A18 comes with a native balanced architecture and also combines the two DACs on the excellent AKM 4499 chip. It comes with Accusilicon clocks asf. Here's a nice review.

As most of you do,  I did scan all these reviews and infos about the device before going for the DAC. 

However. It started of pretty bumpy.

I wasn't happy with the stock DAC after the first hours - to be honest - I was rather disappointed in the beginning. 

It wasn't even a match for my "tuned" $100 Khadas ToneBoard 1 setup. Hmmh.  What were these reviews talking about!?!? 

I switched back to my Allo Katana.

HOWEVER. 

All of us with a bit of experience know that there's usually more to gain with any setup. You simply shouldn't give up too early.  I did run the DAC in its stock config - first.

For commercial off-the-shelf products, I figured,  there's a rather generic tweakers list that never disappoints - if getting applied properly.

My List of Tweaks:  

• mains cable swap - high quality silver cable
• USB cable swap - Ghent Audio USB(JSSG360) Silver-plated Star Quad 
• fuse - DIY silver fuse (bypass is best - but please don't do it - you might smoke your device! )
• on DAC filters - sharp filter setting
• USB filter - iFi iPurifer
• USB power and ground isolator - iFi iDefender fed by Allo Shanti

One word about that IMO excellent special USB link setup: 

Through the iDefender the iPurifier gets properly powered from a spare Shanti rail.

At the same time any groundloop impact gets limited.

The iPurifier is attached right to the DAC. The regenerated stream runs perfectly with perfect impedance into the DAC. And there's no need for another cable.

This setup addresses ground issues, the power is taken care of, the data stream gets reclocked,  regenerated and some 30dB filtering gets applied.

That's my favourite USB link setup after years of fighting upstream induced flaws.

Do not believe sites like Audio Science Review (ASR) which tend to ridicule these kind of filters.

Try them and then you might buy them. You'll usually figure how ignorant and arrogant these folks over at ASR are playing their "science" game.

The power supply related tweaks (fuse and mains cable) are pretty generic and work on most other DACs as well. Mains cables can make and usually make a hell of a difference! Do not not leave that area untouched!

All the reviews and measurements you'll find, such as these on ASR,  IMO do not reflect the power,  transient and transient recovery impact. Meaning - getting clean, fast and stable power to the right spot in the right time. That's IMO one of the main reasons why all these quality DACs measure equally perfect nowadays and still all sound different.  All these mains cable, fuse tweaks are addressing that

area btw. 

If you run a commercial DAC you IMO should consider above list as a generic checklist for improving

your DAC performance. No matter what DAC you're running.

What I also like is the Bluetooth option. I know it's basically standard nowadays. 

It's very convenient to stream some e.g. Amazon Prime music stuff which I can access any other way. However. In no way BT is able to compete with above outlined standalone server as source. 

Let's talk about some so-and-so's, beside that above list of IMO required tweaks.

1.

One thing I don't like is that most of these modern DACs incl. the A18 lack making control features accessible via USB, even basic ones are missing such as volume control. You're forced to use that cheap and flimsy (to me annoying) IR control.

Most features could easily provided via the USB interface, which then could easily be accessed and controlled through an app or web browser. Folks. The community has to push this. It's 2021 - IR controls are simply no longer state-of-the-art. You're invited to support here.

2.

The display sucks. Why would anybody need a tiny display with 12pixel characters. Somebody needs to explain how I am supposed to control it from a 4m /12ft distance. How it looks now. I am kneeling right in front the device with my reading glasses on and the IR in my hand. That's ridiculous. Dear manufactures, program a control app and save the money for these useless displays and IR controls.

3.

The AKM DAC lacks a DSD volume control feature. ESS Sabre DACs do have that. 

I do not listen to DSD very often. It's not a killer issue. Still. You'd need a volume control after the DAC or you'd have to convert DSD2PCM if you want to run DSD with this DAC.

So.

The A18 is not my first DAC. Therefore a little history from my side.

DACs that are still around (sitting idle):

• Khadas ToneBoard 1 (I still like it - The Gustard had a hard time to surpass my well tweaked  KTB1 setup)
• Allo Katana
• Allo Boss
• Audiophonics iSabre 9038Q2M (useless firmware )
• Audiophonics i-TDA1387
• iFi nano iOne
• IAN-canada reclocker-isolator (NDK - SDA clock upgrade)
• a lot of other DACs have been tested and sold over the years (RME, Benchmark, Teac, DDDAC, Topping, SMSL, asf., asf.)

Control and User interface

Lyrion "Material Skin" plugin - on Android, iOS and PC

As controller apps I used to use iPeng on iOS and Orange Squeeze on Android.

Networking

router:
AVM Fritzbox 6591

switch:

Cisco CBS110-5T-D

wireless access points:

AVM FritzRepeater 2400 - in wired bridge mode

cabling:

LinkUp CAT8

Power

Allo Shanti 5V 

This IMO is really one of the best, if not the best, and affordable linear 2x5V PS out there. 

Though I'd better call it a linear charged non-regulated supercap supply!

Because it comes with a huge supercap buffer right on it's DC outputs. 

As much as I like the device and it's outstanding performance, there are plenty of so-and-so's that come with it:

• it is really bulky and the shape of its case is odd - it doesn't fit anywhere
• both DC rails can't be switched on and off separately
• the huge supercap output buffer discharges over the load, which
• can take quite a time on low loads
• in my case I am suffering nasty turn off thumps
• there are rather big venting holes on top of the case - dust will settle and things might drop into the device

I use the Shanti for

• RPi5  (3A output)
• iFi iDefender (1A output)

modifications and tweaks:

• DC cable replaced and shortened
• DC plugs/jacks removed
• mains cable replacement
• fuse replacement
• introducing DC-rail ""relays"" which -
• solves my Shanti supercap discharge issue
• solves my Shanti turn-on/off thump issues
• allows separate control and timing of rails to start devices in proper order
• allow (Wifi) remote power control using ESP8266

Power strip

DIY mains power strip (star - cabling) 

mains-filtering

• Thel mains filter and 
• iFi AC iPurifier

high quality (DIY) internal cabling and connectors

Grounding

Proper grounding of audio equipment is a key factor for keeping all kind of noise and distortions
under control. Many people simply do not realize that the entire chain needs proper grounding in place.
Make sure you figure out how to introduce proper grounding to avoid nasty and dirty ground loops.

The Allo audio devices such as the Shanti or Nirvana are offering a great star-grounding point.

Audio cables and wiring

(DIY) solid-core silver cables and wire
connectors - none - most of the gear is hardwired

Wrap up

Above setup is the result of decades trying, buying, building (DIY) and listening to this or that. 

There were times when spending 3k on a CD-player, 1k5 on a DAC, 5k on an amp, 500$/€ for a cable.... was considered "normal". I was doing it too. Since quite some years I try to achieve a reasonable cost-benefit balance usually by mixing commercial products with a certain amount of DIY efforts.

I am running a - to me - rather pricey Purifi (DIY) amplifier and a Gustard A18 DAC for the time being. Both of them are 2nd hand items btw. (I wouldn't have bought them at list prices)

During recent years there's been a lot of development in the market. Highest quality devices at very reasonable prices you can find out there nowadays. 

Is a (partial) DIY approach still worth it?

 

A clear: Yes. 

Nothing beats the great feeling that you sit in front of something built or tweaked by yourself. Especially if that system performs quite well.

The main issue nowadays is that whatever you do in a DIY fashion might not achieve the quality levels that you get with rather budget commercial devices. You simply can't verify if that what you've assembled or tweaked in a DIY fashion is better or worse than a highly professional measured commercial device.  You need to trust your ears. Which IMO still works quite well though.

However. Doing a bit of DIY IMO is still more than worth it. Actually it's IMO a must. And it's the fun part of the whole hobby.

That's it!?!?  Yep at least for now.  

Of course I'm not saying it can't get better. It always will... 

All these continuous developments keep us all and our hobbies going. 

Great times.

Enjoy. I do - very much so!