my system

(Latest update: Jun-21-2023)


Several people were interested to see what audio system I am running. 

Below I am outlining the setup of my main system. 

I hope that this article puts the projects, articles and recommendations you'll find on this blog into a certain context.

Disclaimer:

I do not have any commercial or business relationships with any of the manufacturers and related products that are shown on this page and blog.

speakers

PIO Sound Falcon -- Hybrid Electrostats 



IMO great sounding and very nice looking speakers.
(unfortunately out of production and business)

slightly modified

amplifier

Purifi Eval 1 and Ghent Audio Case (DIY)

IMO a very neutral amp. It delivers plenty of rock solid power from bottom to top. 

Almost "boringly" good.  The amp plays everything you throw at him. 

The best amp I ever had. 

I run the amp at 0dB pre-stage gain setting, which is usually more than sufficient.

The input pre-gain stage will be "bypassed"  and that improves the already excellent 

SINAD performance by another 4dB according to ASR. (here's are the ASR measurements and ranking)

preamplifier

NA 

straight DAC >> amp connection

The Purifi amp allows to configure different gain levels. That's pretty useful for a good DAC-amp integration.

standalone audio server

system 1

RPi4 and Gustard A18

Hardware

• RPi4
• 4GB RAM
• 2TB SSD (Samsung Evo 970) > attached to USB3 port (10 times faster than standard port) 
• USB3.0 to SATA adapter (Eluteng - supports TRIM and boot! )
• Gbit ethernet (LinkUp CAT8)
• passive cooling case (ArgonNeo) >> (~50C°)
• Allo Shanti (for RPi and USB) plus 1200uF OSCON buffer.
• iFi iDefender (DAC)
• iFi iPurifier (DAC)
• iFi iSilencer (SSD)
• Ghent Audio USB(JSSG360) Silver-plated Star Quad
  

system 2 (my current system of choice) 

CM4 Lite - Waveshare IO MB - Allo Katana

Hardware

• CM4 Lite - 4GB - No Wifi - No EMMC - No SD
• Waveshare CM4-IO-BASE-B
• Dickson CM1 Heatsink
• Western Digital NVMe SSD 256GB - 2230
• IanCanada ShieldPi Pro
• Allo Katana DAC
• Allo Shanti PS

NOTE: 

My system 2 solution I've chosen because I am  running a HAT-Audio interface.

And I am not using USB-SSD storage. Why? I wanted NVMe.
The Waveshare USB solution is pretty lowQ in comparison to the RPi4.
That's the price you have to pay if you go NVMe!

It's either a fast USB 3 controller that gets attached to the PCI or the NVMe SSD.

Since I use a HAT DAC, no need for HW USB. It's actually completely turned off. 

Software

• custom Raspberry PI OS 64 - Bullseye
• custom 64-bit RPI foundation based rt-kernel
• custom 64-bit userspace
• custom LMS (latest from github)
• custom squeezelite (my own fork offered on github )
• advanced tuning measures (many of them you'll find in my tuning kit - sKit )

Note: 

My standalone audio server solution is a rather new (2021) development, replacing my client/server setup.  LMS, squeezelite and my music collection are all situated on one machine now.

With quite some efforts I managed to get better results with this setup compared to my client/server setup that I've been running for almost a decade. I still can connect clients to the standalone setup  of course. I do try to avoid it to keep a highest efficiency setting.
I do use streaming services such as Qobuz though. However, I avoid network file services (NFS, Samba, etc), again for efficiency reasons. In my system NFS and Samba/Cifs are definitely a downgrade. 

Some of you might also wonder why I am not using piCorePlayer myself even though I am
referring to it all the time. The reason is simple. I can and I am building and customizing my 

entire RPI SW setup (OS, rt-kernel, LMS, squeezelite)  from scratch. 
That'll give me maximum flexibility and freedom to do and tweak whatever I like. Not to forget.

It'll give me best results. 

All my piCorePlayer based work you'll find on this blog is solely dedicated to you fellow audio enthusiasts - yep  - I don't use it myself. BUT. It's still worth to go for it. It'll be your 2nd best choice 

- soundwise - out there. ;) 

digital to analog converter

Gustard A18

Oh. Gee. A commercial DAC. Yep. I was able to a snatch a used one. An offering I couldn't resist.

Here's the ASR review

Measurements look really nice. Beside that it also sounds nice. Gustards are known for powerful and natural sound. The A18 comes with a native balanced architecture and also combines the two DACs on the excellent AKM 4499 chip. It comes with Accusilicon clocks asf. Here's a nice review.

As most of you do,  I did scan all these reviews and infos about the device before going for the DAC. 

However. It started of pretty bumpy.

I wasn't happy with the stock DAC after the first hours - to be honest - not at all. It wasn't even a match for my "tuned" $100 Khadas ToneBoard 1 setup. Hmmh. A major disappointment. What were these reviews talking about!?!? 

HOWEVER. 

All of us with a bit of experience know that there's usually more to gain. You simply shouldn't run a DAC in stock config.

For commercial off-the-shelf products, I figured,  there's a rather generic tweakers list that never disappoints - if getting applied properly.

My List of Tweaks:  

• mains cable swap - high quality silver cable
• USB cable swap - Ghent Audio USB(JSSG360) Silver-plated Star Quad 
• fuse - DIY silver fuse (bypass is best - but please don't do it - you might smoke your device! )
• on DAC filters - sharp filter setting
• USB filter - iFi iPurifer
• USB power and ground isolator - iFi iDefender fed by Allo Shanti

One word about that IMO excellent special USB link setup: 

Through the iDefender the iPurifier gets properly powered from a spare Shanti rail.

At the same time any groundloop impact gets limited.

The iPurifier is attached right to the DAC. The regenerated stream runs perfectly with perfect impedance into the DAC. And there's no need for another cable.

This setup addresses ground issues, the power is taken care of, the data stream gets reclocked,  regenerated and some 30dB filtering gets applied.

That's my favourite USB link setup after years of fighting upstream induced flaws.

Do not believe sites like Audio Science Review (ASR) which tend to ridicule these kind of filters.

Try them and then you might buy them. You'll usually figure how ignorant and arrogant these folks over at ASR are playing their "science" game.

The power supply related tweaks (fuse and mains cable) are pretty generic and work on most other DACs as well. Mains cables can make and usually make a hell of a difference! Do not not leave that area untouched!

All the reviews and measurements you'll find, such as these on ASR,  IMO do not reflect the power,  transient and transient recovery impact. Meaning - getting clean, fast and stable power to the right spot in the right time. That's IMO one of the main reasons why all these quality DACs measure equally perfect nowadays and still all sound different.  All these mains cable, fuse tweaks are addressing that

area btw. 

If you run a commercial DAC you IMO should consider above list as a generic checklist for improving

your DAC performance. No matter what DAC you're running.

What I also like is the Bluetooth option. I know it's basically standard nowadays. 

It's very convenient to stream some e.g. Amazon Prime music stuff which I can access any other way. However. In no way BT is able to compete with above outlined standalone server as source. 

Let's talk about some so-and-so's, beside that above list of IMO required tweaks.

1.

One thing I don't like is that most of these modern DACs incl. the A18 lack making control features accessible via USB, even basic ones are missing such as volume control. You're forced to use that cheap and flimsy (to me annoying) IR control.

Most features could easily provided via the USB interface, which then could easily be accessed and controlled through an app or web browser. Folks. The community has to push this. It's 2021 - IR controls are simply no longer state-of-the-art. You're invited to support here.

2.

The display sucks. Why would anybody need a tiny display with 12pixel characters. Somebody needs to explain how I am supposed to control it from a 4m /12ft distance. How it looks now. I am kneeling right in front the device with my reading glasses on and the IR in my hand. That's ridiculous. Dear manufactures, program a control app and save the money for these useless displays and IR controls.

3.

The AKM DAC lacks a DSD volume control feature. ESS Sabre DACs do have that. 

I do not listen to DSD very often. It's not a killer issue. Still. You'd need a volume control after the DAC or you'd have to convert DSD2PCM if you want to run DSD with this DAC.

So.

The A18 is not my first DAC. Therefore a little history from my side.

DACs that are still around (sitting idle):

• Khadas ToneBoard 1 (I still like it - The Gustard had a hard time to surpass my well tweaked  KTB1 setup)
• Allo Katana
• Allo Boss
• Audiophonics iSabre 9038Q2M (useless firmware )
• Audiophonics i-TDA1387
• iFi nano iOne
• IAN-canada reclocker-isolator (NDK - SDA clock upgrade)
• a lot of other DACs have been tested and sold over the years (RME, Benchmark, Teac, DDDAC, Topping, SMSL, asf., asf.)

control / user interface

Logitechmediaserver "Material Skin" plugin - on Android, iOS and PC

As apps I use iPeng on iOS and Orange Squeeze on Android.

networking

router:
AVM Fritzbox 6591

switch:

Cisco CBS110-5T-D

wireless accesspoints:

AVM FritzRepeater 2400 - in wired bridge mode

cabling:

LinkUp CAT8

power

Allo Shanti 5V 

This IMO is really one of the best, if not the best, and affordable linear 2x5V PS out there. 

Though I'd better call it a linear charged non-regulated supercap supply!

Because it comes with a huge supercap buffer right on it's DC outputs. 

As much as I like the device and it's outstanding performance, there are plenty of so-and-so's that come with it:

• it is really bulky and the shape of its case is odd - it doesn't fit anywhere
• both DC rails can't be switched on and off separately
• the huge supercap output buffer discharges over the load, which
• can take quite a time on low loads
• in my case I am suffering nasty turn off thumps
• there are rather big venting holes on top of the case - dust will settle and things might drop into the device

I use the Shanti for

• RPi 4 (3A output)
• iFi iDefender (1A output)

modifications and tweaks:

• DC cable replaced and shortened
• DC plugs/jacks removed
• mains cable replacement
• fuse replacement
• introducing DC-rail ""relays"" which -
• solves my Shanti supercap discharge issue
• solves my Shanti turn-on/off thump issues
• allows separate control and timing of rails to start devices in proper order
• allow (Wifi) remote power control using ESP8266

power strip

DIY mains power strip (star - cabling) 

mains-filtering

• Thel mains filter and 
• iFi AC iPurifier

high quality (DIY) internal cabling and connectors

grounding

proper grounding of audio equipment is a key factor for keeping all kind of noise and distortions
under control. Many people simply do not realize that the entire chain needs proper grounding in place.
Make sure you figure out how to introduce proper grounding to avoid nasty and dirty groundloops.

The Allo audio devices such as the Shanti or Nirvana are offering a great stargrounding point.

audio cables and wiring

(DIY) solid-core silver cables and wire
connectors - none - most of the gear is hardwired

wrap up

Above setup is the result of decades trying, buying, building (DIY) and listening to this or that. 

There were times when spending 3k on a CD-player, 1k5 on a DAC, 5k on an amp, 500$/€ for a cable.... was considered "normal". I was doing it too. Since quite some years I try to achieve a reasonable cost-benefit balance usually by mixing commercial products with a certain amount of DIY efforts.

"...you seriously ended up with a €100 DAC after 30 years being into the hobby!?!?...". Yep, and my Abletec amp ran at €150 or so. A great performing combo.

Times and the situation have slightly changed recently. 

That's why I am running a rather pricey Purifi amplifier and a Gustard A18 DAC for the time being. Both of them are 2nd hand items btw. I wouldn't have bought them at list prices.

IMO during recent years there's been a lot of development in the market. There are really 

highest quality devices at very reasonable prices out there. 

The main issue is whatever you do in a DIY fashion ( that's what I did for more than a decade) will not achieve the quality levels that you get with rather budget commercial devices nowadays. Beside that you simply can't verify if that what you've assembled or tweaked in a DIY fashion is better or worse than a highly professional measured commercial device.  In the end you spend (and often waste) more money on DIY then you'd spend on todays pretty competitive commercial devices out there.
I have to admit though there's still some DIY tweaking with these commercial devices to do. It's manageable though.

Of course I'm not saying it can't get better. It always will... 

...I recently read a review about the SMSL VMV A2 full digital amplifier. I am eying FDAs for quite some time. I wrote this article in 2012. I had several of these devices around. And I still think a combined DAC and amp - if done right - could be a hell of an improvement. Unfortunately I don't have such an SMSL FDA at hand for testing. Would be really interesting how a 2021 device compares to my current reference system. I actually expect it to perform very similar and that at about 1/2 the price. Still I am hesitant to go for it. I've never been a big fan of SMSL in the past. Let see if other manufacturers  also jump on the FDA train. Would be nice to see some further evolution in that segment.

All these nice developments keep us all going. Great times.

Enjoy. I do - very much so!